Asheville Asphalt Paving Solutions

Keep grass trimmed back off the asphalt (a border of stone may even be best), get rid of and try to prevent weeds you notice growing in cracks immediately. (Ant hills can do damage as well and should be removed.) Don’t let a vehicle leak oil or fuel onto the asphalt. Have good drainage around your home. Scrub and remove moss or scum in shady spots. Sealcoat regularly (After the first year if new and then every 3-5 years after)

We totally understand if you don’t want to use a harsh chemical! You can use vinegar, dish soap and salt to create a more natural solution- but keep up with repeating it often!

Commercial grade sealcoat is much more than black paint. It will save the asphalt from the affects of sun fade, water damage, and offer an amount of protection from the corrosive affects of oil and salt. If it has sand in it, that helps refill micro cracks for a smoother appearance while also offering some traction. Studies have shown that after the first year, new asphalt ages rapidly when unprotected and exposed to the elements.

We recommend every 3-5 years. You may be able to get away with more than that if your driveway doesn’t experience a lot of sun or traffic, however regular maintenance will save you a lot of money in the long run- so if you are in doubt you can send us a couple photos and ask!

Well first, we brush in all of the borders to avoid getting any sealer on important things! Then we typically spray it on with a powerful machine that also adds fine sand. When done properly spraying offers a nice even, full coverage no matter the angle of your driveway. On community roads we are able to spray through a bar on the back of the trailer. By request or in some instances we may decide to squeegee the sealer onto the driveway. We are highly experienced in both methods.

It really should! Not every asphalt contractor will though. It requires special machinery since not all pumps are equipped to add an abrasive aggregate like sand. There are a few reasons it should have sand. Without it, sealcoat can be quite slick, especially when wet. Some people worry it will be a fall hazard but with the right amount of sand, even a driveway with a slightly steeper grade with have some grip to it! Also as the sun and water beat down on asphalt, it gradually begins to lose the sand that it was made with, becomes rougher & micro cracks form, then grow. Adding some sand back to it in the sealcoat can help slow down that aging process.

Well nobody is stopping you, but we have some reasons why that’s probably not going to be your best choice in the long run... The buckets from the hardware store are not commercial grade. They are made with inferior materials and stored in uncontrolled conditions. Also they will not have any aggregate added so they can dry quite slippery. Brushing the entire driveway will leave you with marks that show as the sealer fades, and it will fade much faster than commercial grade sealer will. You may save a little bit of money initially, but will have to repeat it more often than if you hire a professional.

Crack seal is often called crack fill, however in our experience it is important for the customer to realize that only asphalt can truly fill a separation of asphalt. The products used and labeled “crack fill” are like rubber and therefore really only help seal the crack temporarily. There are two kinds of crack seal. The first is essentially a rubber which is applied hot. It is a single component, hot applied Polymer-modified, polyester fibered, crack and joint sealant. This is often used in parking lots & on roads. The second kind is a single component, highly filled polymer modified asphalt emulsion that is designed to help fill and repair “alligatored” and cracked areas in asphalt pavement surfaces. It is applied at normal temperatures and often used on private driveways since it is less obvious than rubber.

No, we have carefully chosen and tested the products we use so we know they will have the desired result. We won’t use a product we are unfamiliar with or know to be subpar.

We stand behind our work and are committed to making it a good experience. The products we use are backed by name brands with good reputations. Any major disputes over a product’s longevity or quality can be addressed directly and efforts can be made to correct the situation. If a complaint is made an investigation will be made into the conditions the product was under. If the product is protected by manufacturer warranty and it is found to be faulty, replacement will be issued to us. The labor to do any replacement would not be covered however.

If in doubt ask us! For newly seal coated driveways we typically recommend giving them 24-48 hours to dry before driving on them. Weather conditions can vary and occasionally this recommendation may be longer or shorter. For chip-seal (tar & gravel) roads, and asphalt patches, they may be carefully driven on upon completion. Avoid turning tires sharply. Curing happens gradually and the topcoat will become much stronger after a week or two. Avoid stepping on or driving on new asphalt curb for a couple days.

We need clear weather above 50 degrees to sealcoat or chip-seal. This means it needs to happen between May-October, and when it is not raining. Asphalt patching is more flexible with temperature but still has to be clear. Ditch line work, grading, and erosion repair can happen year round.

Not at all. Many of our customers even choose to do it while they are away. When estimating we measure and take some photos, then later email your estimate directly to you. Signing of the contract, deposits and final payment can be made remotely as well. Final payment is due upon completion so we can arrange to send you a photo of the completed job.

If you’ve driven on a back road in rural North Carolina or through a private gated community, you have likely driven on it without realizing! It creates a similar result to asphalt but with a more porous texture & a smaller price tag. Hot tar is sprayed down, pea gravel is spread over it and compacted. This process is repeated for two or three layers. A thin final black coating may be applied called “fog seal” but is not required. Chip-seal can be applied as a refresher layer over older asphalt, over older chip-seal, or over a graded base. If you want to know if it is an option for you, feel free to reach out!

No worries! We’d be happy to help diagnose your water issues. Clearing ditch lines, diverting water and installing drainage are all things we do a lot of in the mountains!